I want you to tell about one small place where you might want to go after my story…

We have one project on reclamation of pistachio plantations in Kashkadarya province. It is a very good project but this story is not about it. One of its parts is dedicated to the development of the rural tourism in this district.
To begin, we decided to introduce this place to tour agents, so that they could see this place and express their views - whether there is potential to bring tourists or not... We called a lot of tour agencies. There were those which called themselves. From the beginning there were nearly 15 agencies which wanted to go to that district. We fixed the date of the trip. By the fixed date only 5 agencies were left which agreed to go: OrexCA, Saga Tour, Master Tour, Wahrizada Voyaj, Ark-Osiyo. And we were happy to see them. Those who rejected our invitation lost a lot.

We agreed to meet right in the Kuruksay settlement. Most of our GEF SGP team went there: Jamshid, Katya – our student, Garriy – our boatswain, who drives our green car to any debris, and me. Also, I took my son who learns our nature through such kind of trips together with his father. The cars with tour agents went separately. They were led by Taras, our volunteer. Bakhrom – our second volunteer was waiting for us in the settlement.
We went along the Kitab pass. Those who have never been there should definitely visit this place. This is a wonderful place, very spectacular. These boulders throughout the southern side of the slope of the pass ... Of course, we made photos. See all photo pictures in the album “Kuruksay” on Facebook.
After some time we finally got the Kuruksay settlement. The road itself is fascinating. I assessed it from the point of pilots… These are wonderful places for flying on paraglider. I hope to come there with my friends. We also can be some kind of tourists who will contribute money to this district. However, the main thing is to invite guests from abroad. Though I am always surprised why our people do not like such places. Yes, it is far enough. But is it better to stay at home??? We have such a beautiful country. We can see a lot… We had a project in Nuratau. There are so beautiful places there, and guest houses are available. All you need is just to get the car and go there. But only foreigners go there. And just a few of our crazy locals do it. How could we cultivate a taste for beauty???

So, our “tourists” came. We called our tour agents in this way. They are young guys with shining eyes. They are not exhausted with the routine of tourist business yet.
We were perfectly met in the house of Jumakul, who is the local elder. I wrote one short story about him on Facebook, probably, you will also like it. Jumakul met us with a cold dish named “chalob” that is the milk substance with the vegetables. It was really tasty. They prepared food for us. We were placed in the spacious terrace on the kurpacha (small down quilt). It is a special pleasure to plunge into such atmosphere of rural life which is unusual for urban residents… Nothing was odd: kurpachas, dastarkhan (the tablecloth of rectangular shape, where food is put), more kurpachas were laid in a pile in the corner. Each guest was given a pillow to lie comfortably near the dastarkhan.

When all tourists came and had a rest a little, we went to watch the first places of interest.
While we were walking along the streets, all locals were watching us with a real interest, like we were UFO. Of course, they do not see every day people who are dressed so strangely. But for us it was also shocking to look at this rural pastoral. On the streets we saw old men riding the donkeys, children with different slippers and clothes who looked at us curiously – all this was like the stuff from the television program about the adventures to the distant countries. It was terribly interesting. And at that, they all look really happy. It was really hot outside. We entered the dukon (shop) along the road. The dukon was simply one wattle and daub room. The choice of products was very little there. There was only carbonated water there. Locals do not understand why we want to buy gas-free water in bottles. It is available in the springs… Our big band bought all bottled water there. This is what “the asphalt children” are…

We came to the first point of our journey… There was a whole series, or even the ensemble of the stones of various fanciful forms, smoothed by the wind and water. There were some enclaves inside the rocks, everything was so interesting… you need to see it. The photos are one thing, but to see it with your own eyes is absolutely different. There was even a slide where you could ride down… The most remarkable thing from the scientific point of view is an ancient calendar. It consists of ticks that were cut out on the stones… It seemed that old people wanted to have the calendar very much, so they could catch a crocodile, and grow a coconut… because it was hard to live only on Mondays…

Of course, some bad people begin to draw various stuff on the rocks like “Alisher was here” and something like this. We want to stop it somehow… Some bright archeologists came there and proved that the calendar is really related to the beginning of our civilization…

After the calendar and attractive rocks we went along the pictorial path to our next destination – to the ancient pistachios… When we reached the place, we just tried to tell the tourists about the pistachio – what kind of tree is this, why and how it grows etc. It is said that pistachio grows where a spirit of a saint man decided to go out… therefore, it is not done to plant the pistachio… however, it did not help to save its deforestation… and there is no new sprouts because all is eaten by the livestock… Overall, we talked on how it is bad to cut the trees… and how it is good to plant them. It is true, without any sarcasm…

We stepped down (it is needed to say, that the whole settlement is lifting up and down), there was another dukon there. I entered it and asked: “Do you have water?” meaning, of course, the water in bottles. The seller pointed at the bucket of water on the window with a scoop inside and said that I could drink as much as I want… The water was really tasty… Then tourists entered with a question… “Do you have beer?” “Yes, we do… Qibray, Sarbast” (the most popular brands of local beer producers)… That’s good…

There were rather many of us. Therefore, we were divided. One group was accommodated in the house of Hodji Bobo, Jumakul’s brother … He also made a hajj… but a little bit earlier than Jumakul…

We agreed that at 5:30 the next morning we are going up, on top of the mountain, where "Stone of sins" and " Swinging Stone" were waiting for us. And then the old plane tree at the bottom.

We had a great meal in the evening… in the fresh air… we were sitting and talking while it was dark outside. There was no light in the village and it was even better. We didn’t feel any inconvenience. Then we went to sleep. Those who asked to sleep outside were given kurpachas. Some people decided to sleep inside the house. Thanks God, there aren’t mosquitoes in Kuruksay. I lied outside as I always sleep outside when I have such opportunity. Then after a while the dust storm got up, the sky was covered with clouds and there was a terrible downpour ... really terrible ... We took everything we could catch and ran inside...

We woke up in fresh spirits… We woke up, stretched, drank a cup of tea with cakes and then went out... We have repeatedly told each other that we did the right thing to come out early in the morning. The way was far and it is more comfortable to pass it while it was chilly rather than going up in the heat.
On the way up there is a wonderful spring, which is just in time after a long climbing. And, from the spring we were close to our goal. First we came to the "Swinging stone." It was a huge object, of 30 tons or more, a giant stone, on the edge of a precipice, which can be swung by a couple of people. One person also can do it, if he/she will do his best... Not far from it there is a stone that releases from sins, as locals say. If you get through it, you will remove all your sins... The stone is small, and it becomes scary inside it. Here is the problem, whether you nip in or not. You are to get into a big hole, squeeze through needle’s eye and come out into small hole. We even have a video, which we called "Birth of the Stone"... Perhaps, we also will exhibit it on our Facebook homepage. Look at photos and it will become clear what I am talking about.

There are a lot of hollowed out “bowls” on the rocks... The water of the night rain has collected there... One can drink it...

We went down from the top and traverse along the slope for a very long time. There are cosmic landscapes around - some plants standing like antennas, ... it looks so cool. This all dispose to philosophical conversations. Together with Mikhail Shamshidov (OrexCA) we chatted all way long.

We walked down to the plane tree… The plane tree was too impressionable. There is a legend that this is one of the plane trees, planted by Amir Temur in different parts of the country, and all of them were planted in the points that correlate to the position of the stars of the Great Bear constellation... i.e. if you look from above, there are places where plane trees grow, and they all look like stars of the Great Bear constellation...

A wonderful spring is again near the plane.
Then we went back to the village. The people were waiting for us in the local school. All tourists gathered there and tried to explain to people what benefits could be brought by the development of tourism in this place. And I am talking not only about tourism but about the development of the whole village. People will earn bringing tourists here, tourists will stay at their houses and will pay for their accommodation, they will rent someone’s donkeys for walking (not everyone can walk so much), buy something in the shop (as we did) and buy suzane (embroidered decorative wall rug) if they like it, or some koshma (felt rug made of sheep or camel wool) etc. so it will be profitable for everyone. The money will be brought to the village. Therefore, people will live better. And what is more, people do not need to do a lot, just to make normal toilets, know about favorite meals of the foreigners, prepare a good programme and guides. The repair works are not necessary as well as purchase of equipment… They just need to live the way they are living now. That’s what outside people are interested in.

Well, why I am telling about it. Come to Kuruksay!! You may ask “How?” – Well, it is easy enough... You can take a taxi from Samarkand to Chirokchi. Chirokchi – is a local district center. The cost of taxi service is maximum 10-15 thousand Uzbek sums. There are a lot of ways to come to Samarkand. You also can take a taxi from Chirokchi to Kuruksay and pay 5 thousand. There is also a bus there but only once a day. At 10-11am it leaves Chirokchi, and at 2 pm you are in Kuruksay. Or you can take a taxi…

When you come to Kuruksay, you can travel through the same route we did. We haven’t organized anything yet but if you go there by yourself you can find Jumakul. Everyone knows him and Hodji Bobo. Then we will give names of other people who would like to make guest houses in their houses.

They don’t have fixed prices yet. You can pay as much as you think is enough, i.e. how much you will pay for breakfast, dinner and supper. But don’t be too stingy. Just remember, the money you pay will go for the development of that place. Probably, they will spend that money on seedlings and will plant them. That’s what we are trying to persuade them. Your money will help them to understand that they live in a unique place and it must be preserved…